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Wine & Conversation with Jim Gabler
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Wine of the Week
Some of the best things about Montalcino, a small hilltop town in southern Tuscany, have nothing to do with its most celebrated wine—Brunello di Montalcino. In fact the best wine of this famous Italian wine region in my opinion is far less expensive than Brunello. It is bright ruby-red, exhibits classic red fruit flavors of cherries and plums, is medium to full-bodied, has a fresh clean taste with a hint of spice on the aftertaste, and it can be drunk when bottled. It is called Rosso de Montalcino and it costs only $15-30 a bottle, a far cry from the $40-450 a bottle winemakers ask for their often dried-out, over-the-hill, Brunellos.
Both Rosso and Brunello are made 100% from the Sangiovese grape, but Brunello is aged in oak for 3 ½ years and Rosso for just 6 months, hence the difference in freshness and accessibility. The Rosso di Montalcino I’ve been drinking lately is 2009 Tenute Silvio Nardi; it costs about $22. Although there are more than 150 producers of Rosso de Montalcino, on balance it is a wine that represents good value, so don’t be afraid to try the recommendations of your wine merchant. I also recommend Banfi and Altesino as producers who make good, reasonably priced Rosso di Montalcino.
If you visit Montalcino do spend an hour or so walking its twisting, narrow but fascinating streets. What caught my interest was the boldness, colors and designs of the doorways to the 16th, 17th, and 18th century private residences. A stroll through the park built along the ramparts gives striking views of the surrounding valleys dotted with vineyards and olive groves. Before you leave visit the many wine shops located throughout the town and sample the wines. It’s a relaxing, fun way to spend a lazy afternoon
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