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Thomas Jefferson had such a galaxy of interests and accomplishments
that he is sometimes referred to as the Leonardo da Vinci of America.
Many of his interests were so intensely pursued that they can be classified
as passions. Clearly, wine and food were two of his life-long passions.
He called wine a "necessary of life." His wine interests went far beyond
just drinking wine. He was interested in its viticulture, making notes
on German and Italian grape growing and examining "the details relative
to the most celebrated wines of France." He planted vineyards at Monticello
and experimented with grape growing in his Paris garden on the Champs-Elysees.
He encouraged Philip Mazzei, John Adlum and others in their vineyard efforts
and accurately predicted that America would, some day, make wines as good
as those of France. He was a wine adviser to Presidents Washington, Madison
and Monroe.
Throughout his life he was an advocate of the virtues
of wine, arguing that "no nation is drunken where wine is cheap; and none
sober, where the dearness of wine substitutes ardent spirits as the common
beverage." His wine advice to merchants and friends opened channels for
the importation of wine into the United States from France, Italy, Portugal
and Spain. To encourage the importation of wines he effectively lobbied
for a reduction in U.S. taxes while serving as Secretary of State, as
President, and later in retirement.
Jefferson was the most knowledgeable wine connoisseur
of his age and his tastes in wine covered the world: France, Germany,
Italy, Cyprus, Hungary, Madeira, Portugal, Spain and, of course, America.
His love of good food and the pleasures of dining are well
documented in his account books, letters and other records. Jefferson's
early Monticello dinners included ducks, geese, chickens, partridges,
game, beef, fish, oysters, anchovies and an incredible array of vegetables
and herbs that he grew in his garden. However, it was during his five
years in France that he became serious about the pleasures of the table.
Fourteen months after his arrival in Paris and his appointment
as our minister, he moved into a new home, the Hotel de Langeac, located
on the Champs-Elysees. Over the next four years the Hotel de Langeac became
the scene of many lavish dinners where France's best wines were served
to an appreciative coterie of friends, both American and French.
President Jefferson turned the White House into the
most interesting social center of the new city. His staff included two
Frenchmen; to administer the White House, Jefferson hired Etienne Lemaire,
and as his chef, 42 year old Honore Julien.
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